$4,700 $4,400 until April 30th, 2019
We approach the Polish Glacier via the Ameghino – Upper Guanacos Valley and traverse the mountain. If you are signing up for the Polish Glacier Route you need to have previous high altitude experience, and be very familiar with the use of ice axe, crampons, and belaying techniques. We are specialized in the Polish Glacier Route, having successfully guided it many times.
The line we choose will depend on conditions. If a lot of penitentes (snow pinnacles formed by direct sunlight) are encountered in the lower section of the glacier, we will start by climbing through the scree and rock on the right hand side.
The steeper Polish Glacier Direct Route has been the choice route in recent years. Although steeper, it is safer and easier due to fewer icy and exposed traverses than on the old Polish Route. On this spectacular, steep snow and ice climb we will use several running belays.
In steeper icy sections we will climb pitches instead of using running belays, belaying and regrouping at every anchor. A long day of climbing will take us to the Summit Ridge at 22,000′ after the last steep pitch; a 55-60 degree narrow gully with the entire Glacier below at our feet. The final ridge is very long and gentle. After summiting, we descend quickly down the Normal Route to Independencia (20,790′) where we descend to our High Camp at 19,200′ to rest and spend the night. The next day we descend the Normal Route.
WAITING LIST: IF AN EXPEDITION DEPARTURE YOU ARE INTERESTED IS FULL, PLEASE CONTACT US TO BE PUT ON THE EXPEDITIONS’S WAITING LIST. IN THE EVENT OF A CANCELLATION, QUALIFIED APPLICANTS WILL BE ABLE TO GET THAT NEW SPOT AND REGISTER.
Cost for reserving:
Group meets in Mendoza, Argentina. Equipment check and afternoon briefing will be at the hotel. For dinner we will have a chance to taste fine Argentinean cuisine and wine.
Drive West from Mendoza to Penitentes ski area at 8,500'. Our drive winds along the Rio Mendoza deep into the heart of the rugged Andes mountains where we begin our acclimatization in Penitentes. An afternoon hike is recommended, though optional.
We will begin our approach to Base Camp. This 25 mile approach gives us the chance to begin our acclimatization. We follow the Horcones Valley, and camp our first night in Confluencia, at 10,900’. Mules carry our gear.
Hike to the base of the majestic South Face of Aconcagua, at 13,000', toward Plaza Francia. Return to Confluencia to spend our 2nd night, before heading to Base Camp the next day. This hike will facilitate our acclimatization process.
After 3 days of hiking through colorful desert landscape we reach our Base Camp, Plaza de Mulas, at 13,800'.
Rest and acclimatization day at Base Camp. We want everyone to have the best possible chance to make the summit. The most effective way to do this is to take the time to acclimatize to the low oxygen environment. We will incorporate rest days into our schedule and climb in traditional expedition style. We will be carrying loads up to our next camp, and returning to sleep below at the previous camp. The next day we will move to the higher camp. This day (Day 6) we will practice snow and ice techniques on the Nieve Penitentes, unique snow and ice formations created by direct sunlight.
Carry a load to Camp I, Plaza Canada, at 16,170' . Return to Base Camp.
Leave Base Camp. Move to Camp I. Beautiful campsite with impressive views of the north side of Aconcagua and alpine Cerro Cuerno.
Carry a load to Camp II, Nido de Condores, at 17,820'.
Leave Camp I. Move to Camp II.
Carry a load to Camp III, Piedras Blancas (High Camp) at 19,200'.
Move to Camp III. This unique spot will be our High Camp where we will spend at least 2 nights. Here we are surrounded by interesting rock formations only a day from the summit.
Day 13 - 15
Summit! Weather permitting. We allow a window for our Summit Day in case of poor weather and depending on how group is acclimatizing.
Descent from High Camp to Base Camp.
Hike out the Horcones Valley with its impressive views of Aconcagua's South Face. Mules carry our gear. We arrive in the afternoon to Penitentes where we may take a quick shower and head on to Mendoza to the comfort of the Mendoza Park Hyatt. If extra weather and acclimatization days are not used on our expedition, you and your team may arrive a day or two earlier to Mendoza. Evening banquet with your team, if too late summit Certificates will be given at breakfast or lunch the next day.
Leisure day in Mendoza, possibly fly home this afternoon or continue traveling in South America.
- Professional Mountain Guides
- 2 nights hotel accommodation in Mendoza at theMendoza Park Hyatt Hotelwith breakfast buffet (1 night at the beginning of the expedition and 1 night at the end of the expedition)
- 1 night hotel accommodation with breakfast and dinner in Penitentes, on the way to the mountain
- All land transportation
- All expedition food
- All community gear such as: tents, stoves, state of the art Base Camp, cooking gear, medical kits, satellite phones, radios, gamow bag, pulse-oximeters, etc.
You are responsible for
- Round-trip flights to and from Mendoza, Argentina
- Aconcagua climbing permit fee ($700 to $900 depending on season) which you will pay in Mendoza, accompanied by your guide. South Americans pay about half of this amount and Argentinean Citizens about 1/4 of that amount.
- Meals in Mendoza
- Personal equipment
- Personal items and services (laundry, snacks, drinks, tips, etc.)
- Expenses incurred in the case of a rescue or early departure from the expedition
- SAT phone charges